HIGASHI-YAMA Tokyo

During the spring edition starting Monday, March 6th, we will delve into the food culture of Toyama Prefecture. Nutrient-rich snowmelt water flows from the Tateyama Alps, about 3,000 meters high, into Toyama Bay. Deep below in a submarine valley, the ocean floor is 1,000 meters down and the rich blue color of the water has earned it the name aigame, Japanese for “indigo dye pot.” It is home to red snow crabs, white shrimp, and firefly squid. Yellowtail and many kinds of migrating fish are also attracted to the bay by its unique geographical features, allowing for abundant seafood catches throughout the year.

During the spring edition starting Monday, March 6th, we will delve into the food culture of Toyama Prefecture. Nutrient-rich snowmelt A unique fermented food culture that takes advantage of local wisdom and the region’s climate and natural features was cultivated from a desire to preserve the ocean’s delicious bounties. Salted seafood pickled in koji fermented rice or nuka rice bran are popular dishes at celebrations still today. From the 17th century, Toyama flourished as a key port of call for the kitamae-bune cargo ships traveling the thriving trading route on the Japan Sea. Large quantities of kombu harvested in Hokkaido made their way to Toyama and into the local cuisine. The umami-rich seaweed has become an essential element in traditional Toyama dishes, including fish cured in kombu (kobujime), and kombu-wrapped steamed fish cakes (kobu-maki kamaboko), among many others.

In days gone by, the yellowtail fished in Toyama Bay was salted and carried across mountain passes on what became known as “Yellowtail Road.” The salted yellowtail provided a prized source of protein from Ecchu in present-day Toyama Prefecture, to people in more remote mountainous regions of Hida in northern Gifu Prefecture, and Shinshu in present-day Nagano Prefecture.

Craftsmanship is another defining feature of Toyama. Traditional handicrafts passed down through the generations include Inami Chokoku, the intricate woodcarving of transom panels in traditional Japanese buildings; Takaoka Copperware, famous for producing Buddhist altar items; and Ecchu Seto ceramic wares. We visited Takaaki Tanaka at Tomoru Studio, where he engages in traditional Inami woodcarving, and created wooden dishes especially for FOOD NIPPON. We introduce to you the works of Gaku Shakunaga, who was born into a family of Ecchu Seto potters and studied carving before starting his own ceramics studio in Iwasemachi. We also share with you the pottery of Yuka Ando, who has made Toyama her home, as well as the creations of glass artist Kohei Kishimoto, and the works of longstanding metal foundry FUTAGAMI, which uses traditional Takaoka Copperware casting techniques to create modern pieces.

We hope you enjoy the Toyama food story, woven together over time through interactions with many different regions from the mountains to the sea.

We are looking forward to your visit.